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• Levitating the fuel tank. Now down to business. I decided that I didn't want to try disconnecting the fuel injection electrical line and fuel hose from the bottom of.

WR2. 50. R Modifications. Fuel tank. I planned a trip to Arizona to get away from the cold December weather in Colorado and ride the warmer desert with some friends. With daily rides longer than I could make with the stock fuel tank, I broke down and ordered the IMS 3.

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The larger 3. 5 gallon Safari tank was also available, but I decided to go with the more stock- looking IMS tank. The tank has a very nice finish, and there were no tooling marks to be found. One rider posted pics showing marks on his tank, but thankfully mine was pristine.

The small wings are not symmetrical probably due to the WRR design, which has a radiator on the right and miscellaneous other stuff on the left of the fuel tank. IMS was looking for extra capacity anywhere they could find it. The first few riders who ordered and installed the IMS tanks had problems with leakage around the fuel pump mount, and IMS began shipping the tanks with a fat o- ring to use in lieu of the stock Yamaha fuel pump gasket. One rider provided pictures showing what I believe the problem came from - a rough fuel pump mounting surface. I believe the o- ring was able to fill in the grooves in the mounting surface and seal the fuel pump mount. Here is the fuel pump mounting surface on my tank.

You can see that it is very smooth, and I could not detect any machining marks whatsoever. The small blobs of plastic on the nut at 2 o'clock look to be casting residue and not machining residue. Close- up of the mounting surface.

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Based on the excellent appearance of the mounting surface, I decided to use the stock Yamaha fuel pump gasket instead of the IMS- supplied o- ring. Read on to see if this was a good decision or not. I'm not going to show all the disassembly and reassembly steps; the Yamaha Service Manual shows all of this in much better detail than I could.

I'll show you what I did differently. So, remove the seat - check, remove the shrouds - check, remove the plastic radiator vanes - check, remove the plastic cover on the left side - check, remove the tank bag - check, remove the stock fuel tank - check. Having done this once before when I installed some wiring and other stuff, I remembered how hard it was to get that tight fitting fuel connector off the fuel pump. So, I made a small tool out of Kydex and voila, the connector came off without a fuss. The pictures show the connector already removed for clarity - couldn't get a good camera shot with it all hooked up. Using a technique seen in an ADVrider post, I placed some clay on the rubber locating bumps and checked to see how the tank fit.

You can't tell from the photos, but there was a uniform impression of the tank indents on the clay, centered on the rubber bumps. Perfect! Here's the fuel pump, all cleaned up and ready to be installed .. I used a 5mm longer bolt on the seat retainer because the stock bolt seemed too short. I used Anti Seize lubricant on all bolts that screwed into the brass captive nuts on the tank. I installed the fuel pump into the tank then set the tank on the bike, connecting the fuel line and electrical plug as I did so. I added 1,0. 00 ml of gas to the tank and waited.

I added another 1,0. I went to bed. In the morning, I checked the tank - no leaks. So, I installed the mounting bolts, radiator vanes, left side cover, shrouds, and seat. I added another 9,8. I worked on the tank vent hose and elbow and after finishing, waited some more. I took the WRR for a ride down the driveway and back. I was happy. I put on some cold weather gear and went for a 4.

Arkansas River and back. When I got home, I checked the bike and still no leaks. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that there will be no leaks on the Arizona trip.

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Note - no leaks on the Arizona trip. Here are a few pics from the trip - click to supersize. I think the larger tank is the reason. I had a similar experience with my Husky TE3. I installed a 3 gallon tank on it. I put some of that fuel tank foam in the Husky tank and no more sloshing.

I'll be doing the same with the WRR tank, but I'll do it after the Arizona trip. The elbow that I used on the fuel tank cap looked exactly like the one She. Wolf posted a picture of on WRR/X Forum; I found it at the local NAPA. It's a hard plastic heater hose elbow. I discovered that the elbow would not pass air when I blew on either end and found some excess casting flash inside at the 9. I easily removed it with a small screwdriver.

The unmodified elbow fits the cap nipple loosely and really won't do. I cut about half of one leg off, and the elbow fits down into the cap.

There is enough friction for it to just stay in place. I use a tank bag that sits on top of the elbow, and that will be more than sufficient to keep it in place.

Without a tank bag, I'd be looking for a way to get a tighter fit, perhaps with a different elbow. I added a short hose using a larger coupling sleeve as shown in the picture. The other end of the hose has a fuel filter on it, which is my attempt to keep dirty air from entering the fuel tank. It's not ideal, but will do for now. The pictures above show that the tank is not noticeably wider, although it actually measures about 3/8 to 7/8 inches wider on each side. I didn't notice any extra width while riding, either.

I did notice some top- heaviness when I first started riding, but that steadily diminished as I burned off fuel. That's the price you have to pay to carry extra fuel. However, the bike aesthetics haven't suffered much at all. But as most have discovered, the IMS tank is not an exact fit with the shrouds and seat. Looking down on the seat/tank junction, you can see where the tail of each shroud sits wider than the front of the seat.

There is also a gap when looking in from the side. These issues are cosmetic, minor, and acceptable to me. A view of the left front of the tank, showing the gap between the shroud and plastic cover.

The gap was larger still, but I removed the bracket on the left side of the tank, and the gap shrank a bit. I can live with this, although I will cover the gap with tape temporarily and eventually make a black Kydex cover.

I don't want air, water, and whatever entering through the gap. Strangely, no one else has posted anything about this misfit..

I checked it three times and even removed the bracket to make the gap smaller. I weighed the stock and IMS tanks with the mounting brackets attached and the respective caps on, but without the fuel pump, gasket, or mounting ring attached. Stock - 5lb 3oz; IMS 4lb 6oz. That's 1. 3oz lighter for the IMS tank. I put 1. 1,8. 00 ml of fuel in the empty tank, filling it up right to the bottom of the filler neck, allowing room for the cap to sit down inside without forcing any fuel out the overflow.

That's 3. 1. 17 US gallons, or as I'll say from now on: 3. IMS did real good on capacity, tank construction, and finish and just average with fit.

As I mentioned above, I planned to add some tank foam to cut down on fuel sloshing. I used some leftover foam from when I did my TE3. The foam I bought is 3.

These little ends break off as you handle the foam, especially as you stuff it into the fuel tank, and that will lead to possible clogging of the fuel filter. The foam won't get into the filter, it will surround it. So I very carefully trimmed these little ends with tiny scissors. Even so, I found a bunch in the bottom of my TE3.

All the ends will eventually drop off and you'll see fewer and fewer black curly foam pieces. Note: you can buy the foam in small blocks and just stuff the tank full - I saw this illustrated in several Google search results, but I saw more people using larger blocks than smaller.

You can get the foam into the tank through the filler opening or through the fuel pump opening on the bottom (after removing the pump, of course). I decided I didn't want to take the pump off, so I stuffed the foam in through the filler opening.

It's very hard to do this - you have to roll the foam into a long cylinder and feed it in, but of course as soon as it goes through the opening, it expands and holds up any further entry. I used a wooden dowel to push the foam along and shove it around the tank so the foam ends up where I wanted it, but it's easier said than done. Be careful not to tear the foam or you'll end up with more little black pieces in the tank; a 1. This turned out to be a problem when filling the tank with fuel - you can't see the fuel until it starts to cover the foam and by then, it's difficult to stop the fuel flow without overflowing.

I have since moved the foam away from the filler throat and can see the fuel much sooner - no spills now. I was also careful not to shove the foam onto the fuel pump - I didn't want to pull any wires loose from the pump assembly. I don't think minor contact would be a problem. If this is a concern, then consider putting the foam in through the fuel pump opening because you'll be better able to position the foam away from the fuel pump.

The foam that I put in the tank was equivalent to 1. I put about twice that in my TE3. WRR, i figure I lost about . The fuel sloshing on the WRR is comparable to the TE3.

WRR foam is located at the highest point of the tank. The foam has a reduced effect when the fuel level falls below a gallon, but by then, the effect is very minimal anyway. So how did it work? Just as on the TE3. I don't get any detectable fuel slosh as the fuel burns off and on twisty dirt roads, my WRR lays over for the turns very smoothly and with very little effort.

Well worth the money and effort. IMS fuel tank - about $2.